Let's see that shooter

Yep, Type 38 carbine. Surprisingly light recoil, action is smooth as can be. My eight year old will shoot it with no complaints. Near as I can tell, the rifle is fairly accurate out to about fifty yards. Good enough for popping 2 liter coke bottles, at any rate. I haven't taken it to a range to check long distance shooting; now I think I have a good excuse to go! These old bolt actions--near as I can tell, this one was manufactured around 1927--are more of a hobby for me than anything else. I almost didn't buy it, as the mum was ground down, but I didn't have a Type 38 and the seller wasn't asking a lot.
 
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A genuine Savage 'T'? Very nice find there!

My other Arisaka project rifle; Type 30. Unfortunately, this one looks to have been a school rifle. Barrel's got some sharp looking rifling, but also has a good bit of pitting. And it keyholes every round. I'll probably make this one into a wall hanger we take down and shoot every once in a while.
 
A genuine Savage 'T'? Very nice find there!

My other Arisaka project rifle; Type 30. Unfortunately, this one looks to have been a school rifle. Barrel's got some sharp looking rifling, but also has a good bit of pitting. And it keyholes every round. I'll probably make this one into a wall hanger we take down and shoot every once in a while.

Yeah but she's in rough condition and the bolt isn't matching, but I got her for like a 1/3 - 1/4 the price of a nicer one. I'll tinker with her and see what I can do, I'm very much an amateur though.

Sounds like your rifle needs to be counter bored.
 
Amateur? Join the club!

Every time I get on these boards I find out just how much I don't know. But, hey, I never claimed to be a gunsmith.

While price is a big issue for me, I actually like finding the older rifles I have to work on. Forces you to learn about them while you work on them and gives you a sense of the history they were involved in--a tactile link to the past. All matching numbers is a nice thing to be able to say, but, at the end of the day, if it's all there, mostly original, and works, then you've got a fine piece of history in your hands . I think you've got a great find there.

I know what counter-boring is, the basics of it (Googled it when you mentioned it), and the benefit is pretty clear. Are there any potential negatives you're aware of? I've also had re-crowning brought up; any thoughts?
 
Counter boring is a Russian thing really. Re-crowning would be better. Essentially does the same thing.
 
Re-cutting the crown normally solves a lot of problems with the round that yaws or tumbles. If you inspect the crown and see significant gouges or scratches, etc. Then I would definitely look at having the crown re-cut. Pitting in the lands & grooves won't have as much effect on accuracy as a scared up crown.
 
Thanks for the responses. Does the age of the barrel matter with regards to boring or crowning? The rifle was made around 1900, give or take.
 
Here's my latest little project. I managed to get an LWRC M6A2 upper for a great price, so I just threw together a lower for it and I'm planning on taking it out to the range either tomorrow or next week.

It's a pretty simple set-up. I took an aero precision lower, threw in a Rock River lower parts kit and swapped out the trigger for an ALG Combat Trigger. Everything else is pretty identifiable. I can't wait to take this thing out.

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Here's my latest little project. I managed to get an LWRC M6A2 upper for a great price, so I just threw together a lower for it and I'm planning on taking it out to the range either tomorrow or next week.

It's a pretty simple set-up. I took an aero precision lower, threw in a Rock River lower parts kit and swapped out the trigger for an ALG Combat Trigger. Everything else is pretty identifiable. I can't wait to take this thing out.

Very nice indeed! A LWRC is my AR goal.
 
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