# Vehicle maintenance



## RustyShackleford (May 9, 2016)

This is a spin off from another thread. 

I am no mechanic, but over the last two decades or so I have done 99.9% of the regular maintenance (oil, other fluids, shocks, brakes, etc.) on the car/truck at the house.  With the help of a neighbor who worked at Ford for 18 years, rebuilt the engine on the old 1999 F150, that was just traded in with 176k miles on it.  Over the years and with the assistance of YouTube, online Ford forums, and a Haynes manual, I figured out tie rods, fuel pumps, and some other odds and ends that would have costs hundreds of dollars or more at the dealership or other shops. 

Who else here works on their POVs and what resources do you use?  As mentioned above, You Tube and F150online are two awesome resources that have helped me in certain situations.


----------



## BloodStripe (May 9, 2016)

The hardest thing I have done mechanically is to replace an automatic transmission in my Jeep Wrangler. I purchased a used rebuilt one, put it in my Jeep where I then rebuilt it and sold it for more than I purchased the one in my Jeep for. I relied heavily on a Jeep Forum and YouTube. I think YouTube is a fabulous resource to use for many repair projects.


----------



## Diamondback 2/2 (May 9, 2016)

I do all my own wrenching for repair/replacement, to include body work. Grew up doing it as my first vehicle was a Jeep wrangler that I jacked up and tricked out, to the many many old trucks I've pieced together, etc. If its mechanical or structural, I prefer to do my own repair's. However, I quit doing oil change's as my buddy runs a jiffy lube and I trust him, and it's honestly a pain in the ass, nasty mess and having to make multiple trips to buy and dispose has made that 29.99 worth it to me and besides I get to BS with my buddy this way.


----------



## nobodythank you (May 9, 2016)

Excellent thread. As a matter of necessity I have had to do my own maintenance as well. I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited and have had to do pretty much all of my own repairs. I have had to completely change out the AC compressor, collector, evaporator,  and heater core (which required me to remove the dash). Replace shocks, axles, tie rods, steering dampeners, brakes, fuel pump (in the tank full of fuel), filter, various sensors, and some other things I cannot remember. My number one investment in making my own repairs though has to be a copy of the Haynes manual. It is work the 15 or 20 bucks to have all the exact specifications you would ever need. I also use YouTube very heavily, and I use Google and various Jeep forums to research common problems. I have been fortunate that there is a big Jeep community that keeps others informed on their vehicle problems. In the end, I have probably saved at least 10K in labor costs since I started doing my own repair work. 

As I understand it, if you can get past all the weirdness of Craigslist, there are sometimes good deals on various tools depending on where you live. What irritates me the most is having to purchase a tool I will only use once or twice. Case in point, I had to purchase a fuel pressure gauge to see where and why my motor was idling rough (TB is clean and clear with no computer errors). I used it, and now I have a $40 tool sitting in the garage till the end of time that I might never use again. Glad I have an extra tool, but when money is tight, ya gotta hate waste. My dream garage however, has a car lift so I can work under it without having to jack up the jeep and squeeze underneath.


----------



## Diamondback 2/2 (May 9, 2016)

ke4gde said:


> Excellent thread. As a matter of necessity I have had to do my own maintenance as well. I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited and have had to do pretty much all of my own repairs. I have had to completely change out the AC compressor, collector, evaporator,  and heater core (which required me to remove the dash). Replace shocks, axles, tie rods, steering dampeners, brakes, fuel pump (in the tank full of fuel), filter, various sensors, and some other things I cannot remember. My number one investment in making my own repairs though has to be a copy of the Haynes manual. It is work the 15 or 20 bucks to have all the exact specifications you would ever need. I also use YouTube very heavily, and I use Google and various Jeep forums to research common problems. I have been fortunate that there is a big Jeep community that keeps others informed on their vehicle problems. In the end, I have probably saved at least 10K in labor costs since I started doing my own repair work.
> 
> As I understand it, if you can get past all the weirdness of Craigslist, there are sometimes good deals on various tools depending on where you live. What irritates me the most is having to purchase a tool I will only use once or twice. Case in point, I had to purchase a fuel pressure gauge to see where and why my motor was idling rough (TB is clean and clear with no computer errors). I used it, and now I have a $40 tool sitting in the garage till the end of time that I might never use again. Glad I have an extra tool, but when money is tight, ya gotta hate waste. My dream garage however, has a car lift so I can work under it without having to jack up the jeep and squeeze underneath.


 How dare you swap your ac without a recovery unit. lol I've done enough heater cores for family and friends, that I quit messing with dashboards and started cutting firewalls. Pneumatic metal sheer's and a small 90amp  mig welder has made that job pretty darn easy. Put the fire mat back, and you never know the difference.


----------



## Marine0311 (May 9, 2016)

Excellent thread 

I only check my levels such as fluids and tires. I am learning more by asking and watching though. Everything else I go through two local sbops.


----------



## RustyShackleford (May 9, 2016)

As for purchasing rarely used or specialty tools, Harbor Freight is awesome for fuel pressure gauges and other items.  Plus their return policy is awesome.  I broke a wheel puller on a rotor that was stuck only to find a resolution using two bolts and four nuts on You Tube to break the rotor free.  Harbor Freight refunded me on the wheel puller.  As for vehicle or manufacturer specific tools, Advance Auto and the like are pretty good with loaning tools.


----------



## medicchick (May 9, 2016)

I do fuel filter and oil changes  on our diesels but the Jeep is still under warranty so I take it to a local place to have a paper trail.  I can do the basic stuff on my own (swap tires, change bulb) but RP does the heavier stuff since our vehicles fight back.  Trying to tighten the alternator belt on the blazer gave me a black eye and multiple cuts.  I used the auto shop of Ft Richardson plenty when we lived there, the one on base is by appointment only.


----------



## Devildoc (May 9, 2016)

ke4gde said:


> . What irritates me the most is having to purchase a tool I will only use once or twice.



My cousin is a mechanic, has owned his own shop for well over 30 years.  Probably closer to 40.  His shop is less than half a mile from the gate of an air force base, and a lot of the pilots will bring their cars to him...Audi seems to be "in" these days.  The nearest dealership for anything more than Ford or Chevy is 40 miles.  He said that a lot of the "upper end" vehicles with proprietary parts have proprietary tools he will have to get.  A $500 tool he will use a couple times; of course, he has to pass the cost on to the customer, but then he'll have a tool he rarely uses.

I have done nothing more complicated than brakes.  With so much now electronic I am afraid of really screwing something up.


----------



## Diamondback 2/2 (May 9, 2016)

I don't really use books unless I'm trouble shooting wiring. I will use Google and YouTube to track down codes, and I did the turbo on my superduty completely off of YouTube tutorial's. But generally I snap a few pictures with my phone as I disassemble mark my bolts and part's with paint pens and pull and replace. It's actually pretty simple that way, occasionally I'll run into a tool issue, but I inherited two full on mechanic boxes, and when I need a tool, and I don't have it or a buddy doesn't, I'll hit up the tool truck or eBay. I try and stay away from the Chinese tools, because they always break, and running back and forth ends up costing as much as just buy a SNAP ON or MAC. Besides if you open an account with them they will allow you to pay out over time basically like a credit card, and its 100% no questions ever asked warranty.

I've invested in a code reader just because everything 1990 and newer really requires one for any trouble shooting, but you can always hit up the auto store and get it done for free (if you can get the car there).

But yeah, good code reader, google, YouTube, process of elimination, color code your bolts to your part's, take pictures as you disassemble and good quality tool's that don't break when you're in the middle of the job. Well that and a little common sense, will save you thousands in the long run.

$.02


----------



## RustyShackleford (May 9, 2016)

Diamondback 2/2 said:


> I don't really use books unless I'm trouble shooting wiring. I will use Google and YouTube to track down codes, and I did the turbo on my superduty completely off of YouTube tutorial's. But generally I snap a few pictures with my phone as I disassemble mark my bolts and part's with paint pens and pull and replace. It's actually pretty simple that way, occasionally I'll run into a tool issue, but I inherited two full on mechanic boxes, and when I need a tool, and I don't have it or a buddy doesn't, I'll hit up the tool truck or eBay. I try and stay away from the Chinese tools, because they always break, and running back and forth ends up costing as much as just buy a SNAP ON or MAC. Besides if you open an account with them they will allow you to pay out over time basically like a credit card, and its 100% no questions ever asked warranty.
> 
> I've invested in a code reader just because everything 1990 and newer really requires one for any trouble shooting, but you can always hit up the auto store and get it done for free (if you can get the car there).
> 
> ...



I picked up a cheap code reader several years ago and it paid for itself the first time the check engine light lit up.  An hour or so later the plug and COP on cylinder four was changed and all was good.  The Haynes manual is handy, but you hit the nail on the head with websites.  Everyone wants their fame by making videos of themselves fixing things.

Before moving to the 'burbs, the luxury of hitting up a neighbor or two for an oddball tool or for a little help was great.  The suburbanite neighbors apparently think I am a master mechanic as they'll stop by when I'm doing simple stuff on the truck or replacing a drive belt on the walk behind mower.


----------



## Frank S. (May 9, 2016)

When I worked on my car, I would use a combination of youtube and owners' forums, the forums were great to troubleshoot issues.
I stopped doing the work when I started losing dexterity.


----------



## Red Flag 1 (May 9, 2016)

Frank S. said:


> When I worked on my car, I would use a combination of youtube and owners' forums, the forums were great to troubleshoot issues.
> I stopped doing the work when I started losing dexterity.



It gets harder when your get older, a lot harder. I just run out of steam  pretty fast. It's not the routine things that get me, there always is some little nit noit POS thing that you didn't expect that becomes will flat drive me wild. There have been times, under the MG, that I wished the thing would just fall off the jack stands to end the lunacy.


----------



## nobodythank you (May 9, 2016)

Diamondback 2/2 said:


> How dare you swap your ac without a recovery unit. lol I've done enough heater cores for family and friends, that I quit messing with dashboards and started cutting firewalls. Pneumatic metal sheer's and a small 90amp  mig welder has made that job pretty darn easy. Put the fire mat back, and you never know the difference.


LoL I never stated that I didn't use a recovery unit. However, fortunate for me I had a hose that was slowly leaking r134 into the air. Thereby negating the need for the recovery unit when I had to work on it. After I figured out how to take the dash off, it worked out pretty well. I was able to really clean the insides out, and add some weather stripping to remove any leaks between the unit. 



Diamondback 2/2 said:


> But yeah, good code reader, google, YouTube, process of elimination, color code your bolts to your part's, take pictures as you disassemble and good quality tool's that don't break when you're in the middle of the job. Well that and a little common sense, will save you thousands in the long run.


I just got a handy dandy Bluetooth code reader that connect to my phone and gives me a shit tone of information. Pretty much anything you would expect from a diagnostic machine at a mechanic, can be gathered by the reader and displayed in an app. What is even better is that you can use various apps instead of being locked into just one. I also take pictures, but not to the degree you do. I need to get a hold of some paint pens to make a job easier. For now I use a fishing tackle box to separate and store the bolts and things until they go back in. I also use my son's sidewalk chalk for short jobs where I am replacing something but don't want to move the bolts anywhere. Just put them in a pile near a wheel and circle them with an abbreviation and blam. Usually isn't a prob. YouTube, forums, and the Haynes manuals are my top three DIY suggestions for damn near any job.


----------



## DocIllinois (May 9, 2016)

Red Flag 1 said:


> It gets harder when your get older, a lot harder. I just run out of steam  pretty fast. It's not the routine things that get me, there always is some little nit noit POS thing that you didn't expect that becomes will flat drive me wild. There have been times, under the MG, that I wished the thing would just fall off the jack stands to end the lunacy.



This is exactly why I now make it a policy to never do major repairs/ modifications on any car older than 1969.  

Working as a driveability tech at the dealership years ago, so much of what I did involved a computer or very specialized diagnostic tool that, without that stuff, I just leave the newer stuff to the pros.  My 2007 Crown Vic gets no repairs from this guy.


----------



## Diamondback 2/2 (May 9, 2016)

RustyShackleford said:


> I picked up a cheap code reader several years ago and it paid for itself the first time the check engine light lit up.  An hour or so later the plug and COP on cylinder four was changed and all was good.  The Haynes manual is handy, but you hit the nail on the head with websites.  Everyone wants their fame by making videos of themselves fixing things.
> 
> Before moving to the 'burbs, the luxury of hitting up a neighbor or two for an oddball tool or for a little help was great.  The suburbanite neighbors apparently think I am a master mechanic as they'll stop by when I'm doing simple stuff on the truck or replacing a drive belt on the walk behind mower.



Funny you say that, after my dad sold his ranch, we moved into suburbs. Two of the guys I spent many of a night under a hood with or projecting in garages with, are still there and still doing the same old things. Between both their garage's and mine, ain't much we can't build or fix. Hell we did a frame off restro-mod of a CJ5 and than X liner the whole damn thing a few years ago. Had the fancy street looking like a pick n pull junk yard for about six weeks. lol most of the people on that street are stopping by for help, and we don't mind because it gives us projects to do instead of drinking beer all weekend long. I'll snap a few pictures of our garages this weekend, you guys wont believe some of the stuff we have acquired. I basically inherited a full on wood shop from my dad, two large mechanics tool boxes from an uncle and have added to it over the years. My cop buddy bought several storage units in action and acquired a shut down auto shops tools for like $300 (he also has impressive wood working tools/machines) my other buddy is a retired mechanic by trade, turned truck driver. Between building cabinet's, building guns, knives, cars, or whatever crazy idea we come up with after a few beers, its pretty damn fun and entertaining.


----------



## Red Flag 1 (May 9, 2016)

DocIllinois said:


> This is exactly why I now make it a policy to never do major repairs/ modifications on any car older than 1969.
> 
> Working as a driveability tech at the dealership years ago, so much of what I did involved a computer or very specialized diagnostic tool that, without that stuff, I just leave the newer stuff to the pros.  My 2007 Crown Vic gets no repairs from this guy.



I should take your advice, Doc.


----------



## Diamondback 2/2 (Jun 8, 2016)

PB Blaster for seized bolts or just rusty old stuff. Its not expensive and will save you from snapping a lot of bolts and tools. Soak it and let it sit for a day. You can get it at just about any auto parts store.

Amazon.com: Blaster 16-PB Penetrating Catalyst - 11 oz.: Automotive


----------



## DocIllinois (Jun 8, 2016)

PB plus heavy application of the following tool to expand the metal around seized bolts is my go to removal method.


----------



## RustyShackleford (Jun 9, 2016)

Diamondback 2/2 said:


> PB Blaster for seized bolts or just rusty old stuff



PB Blaster does not work on me but it is good to go!

Speaking of general maintenance, one of the suburbanites was telling me how he paid someone to come out and have his garage door balanced, blah, blah.  Not long after he's telling me how my garage door is loud/squeaky when it opens or closes and made some more reference to his garage door.  I took this to mean I should pay someone to fix what he perceived to be wrong with my door so I grabbed a rag, wiped down the rails, lubed all the hinges with silicon spray and proceeded to open and close the door a bunch of times by hand.  Problem solved and its something I do once a year.  What people pay other people to do amazes me.


----------



## Gunz (Jun 9, 2016)

I have farm equipment so I have to do all the maintenance right here.

I figure for every three or four days of work I've got two days of maintenance.

The older you get the more tools you acquire. _I've got all the tools I need until I need a new tool. _


----------



## Red Flag 1 (Jun 9, 2016)

I do all the routine work on our cars, lawn equipment and Kubota 1550, 2 lawn tractors (Craftsman/Kohler  & Husquvarna)

Our '94 Honda CRV has 260,000. The engine and drive train have been pretty bullet proof. The a/c has failed four times. The last time Everything had to be replaced for $5 K. ECM was replaced about two years ago. Not happy with the CRV
Ford '11 F-150 Super 4X4 Super cab, 86,000 +. I've used Ford filters, and Motocraft oil. No Problems
MG-B '80 LE. Svc every 3K. Replaced Suspension, Intake manifold, Side draft webber carb, Exhaust Headers SS Ecxhaust. Highgrind Cam, new breaks, New top & T-cover, has 68,000+ miles. Body and interior are origional.

Kubota, 460 hrs, has belly mower, Rear blade and front end loader. Seems to have around 15-20 grease fittings. Replaced all the hydraulic lines (NEVER again), removed and stored the belly mower, 4 wheel drive, power steering and automatic tranny, painted a stealthy Bright orange, has never been caught speeding on radar:-". This works hard, and demands a lot of care. Between the MG-B, and the Kubota, there is always something to do.

There are the usual chain saws, lawn weed eaters, and a utility trailer, power washer, snow blower, leaf blowers etc., etc. The garage is a huge, oversized so I have room for work benches, Griots bins, cabinets, drawers, and storage cubes in one wall, peg board and shelves on the wall.. Two a/c units for summer work. Kerosene heater for the cold months. I just hate to pay for something I can do myself.


----------



## Diamondback 2/2 (Jun 25, 2016)

Did the spark plugs on my sisters suv this morning, I was looking for my piece of rubber hose I've used for years. Got me think about this thread. I have used a 8" long 3/8 rubber hose to change plugs for years, especially on those hard to reach, fingers aren't long enough type places. Take the hose, push onto the plug and use it kinda like an extension of your fingers. You can start the plug get the threads going to hand tight, and just pull the hose off and tighten the rest with your socket. Works like a charm and will save you some bitching and moaning, more specifically, time.


----------



## Red Flag 1 (Jun 25, 2016)

Diamondback 2/2 said:


> Did the spark plugs on my sisters suv this morning, I was looking for my piece of rubber hose I've used for years. Got me think about this thread. I have used a 8" long 3/8 rubber hose to change plugs for years, especially on those hard to reach, fingers aren't long enough type places. Take the hose, push onto the plug and use it kinda like an extension of your fingers. You can start the plug get the threads going to hand tight, and just pull the hose off and tighten the rest with your socket. Works like a charm and will save you some bitching and moaning, more specifically, time.



I've been using deep well sockets with internal rubber grippers for spark plug changes. Not only does it make threading new one back in easier, it also helps numbskulls like me from breaking the new plugs:-".


----------



## nobodythank you (Jun 25, 2016)

After finally getting the ac compressor replaced, vacuumed, and ready to charge.... the freaking ac clutch fuse blows. I apparently must have a short somewhere that causes the the fuse to blow, and occasionally causes the whole Jeep to lose power. All I want it some cool air :whatever:  After all of this trouble, I don't think I will ever go for a Jeep again. This is the third time I have had to completely replace the ac setup. To include removing the dash and replacing the heater core and evaporator. I love my Jeep, but a 3x ac failure is unacceptable in the Florida heat because of poor engineering.


----------



## Diamondback 2/2 (Jun 25, 2016)

ke4gde said:


> After finally getting the ac compressor replaced, vacuumed, and ready to charge.... the freaking ac clutch fuse blows. I apparently must have a short somewhere that causes the the fuse to blow, and occasionally causes the whole Jeep to lose power. All I want it some cool air :whatever:  After all of this trouble, I don't think I will ever go for a Jeep again. This is the third time I have had to completely replace the ac setup. To include removing the dash and replacing the heater core and evaporator. I love my Jeep, but a 3x ac failure is unacceptable in the Florida heat because of poor engineering.



Man that sucks, I really hate chasing down electrical shorts. I feel for your brother.


----------



## DocIllinois (Jun 25, 2016)

ke4gde said:


> After finally getting the ac compressor replaced, vacuumed, and ready to charge.... the freaking ac clutch fuse blows. I apparently must have a short somewhere that try causes the the fuse to blow, and occasionally causes the whole Jeep to lose power. All I want it some cool air :whatever:  After all of this trouble, I don't think I will ever go for a Jeep again. This is the third time I have had to completely replace the ac setup. To include removing the dash and replacing the heater core and evaporator. I love my Jeep, but a 3x ac failure is unacceptable in the Florida heat because of poor engineering.



Jeep are selling a lifestyle impression with their vehicles, not necessarily a good value.  Sorry to hear of your troubles.

For a similar used car in that type of vehicle range, a good condition "X" series Lexus SUV can't be beat.


----------



## Red Flag 1 (Jun 25, 2016)

ke4gde said:


> After finally getting the ac compressor replaced, vacuumed, and ready to charge.... the freaking ac clutch fuse blows. I apparently must have a short somewhere that causes the the fuse to blow, and occasionally causes the whole Jeep to lose power. All I want it some cool air :whatever:  After all of this trouble, I don't think I will ever go for a Jeep again. This is the third time I have had to completely replace the ac setup. To include removing the dash and replacing the heater core and evaporator. I love my Jeep, but a 3x ac failure is unacceptable in the Florida heat because of poor engineering.



I know how you feel. My wife drives a, '04 Honda CRV. We have relaced the a/c three times. The one that really hurt us was when it blew again in front od the Dulles Air Terminal. It burned the serpentine belt, with billowing black smoke everywhere when I opened the hood. This happened two hours from home. So, find a dealer get a rental, and hope the dealer would not soak us. Now the bad news.

Because of all the previous failures, this one in particular, the entire a/c unit, tubing condenser evaporator, I mean anything a/c related had to be replaced. The Price: $7,500.00. I said keep the car. My wife really wanted to keep it, and with the national shortage of good ammo, I decided not to shoot, her or myself. After three days of phone calls to Honda USA, and the dealer, we ended up paying around $5K.

I suggest you google your Jeep to see if this is a chronic problem for your year and model Jeep. If it is a chronic problem, be prepared for a little piece of a/c Hell, or get rid of it. Adding up all the a/c costs for this CRV, we have paid for this POS twice.


----------



## Gunz (Jun 25, 2016)

Red Flag 1 said:


> ...and with the national shortage of good ammo, I decided not to shoot, her or myself...



Good call, bro.


----------



## nobodythank you (Jun 25, 2016)

@Red Flag 1 the ac issue is a known one with Jeeps. This is the second one I have owned and the previous one had a similar issue, but only had the ac replaced once. The tag to fix the air each time was around 2K. This time I did the work myself, thanks to youtube and Haines, and was able to save a lot of money. It worked before, but this last time the compressor froze and needed to be replaced because of a lack of sufficient oil, and one of the return lines had a gradual leak. Right now I have to bear with it as I cannot afford a new vehicle. When the Teslas come down in price, those are the ones I will be eyeing covetously.


----------



## Red Flag 1 (Jun 25, 2016)

Tesla, I really like that the name of such a visionary was selected for the vehicle.  They could have named it an "Edison" I suppose, but Tesla recalls the mystery once again.  Good choice. 

As for a total electric vehicle, my head is just not there yet. Hybrid perhaps, but the purchase price needs to drop more.


----------



## nobodythank you (Jun 25, 2016)

If it were any other electric I would agree with you. However, Tesla has made some substantial leaps forward in the automotive industry. While the price point is high, it has been steadily falling. Their SUVs come with a bioweapon defense mode for fucks sake. Among other improvements, they are continually improving the range of their vehicles. I hope great things for this company.


----------



## Red Flag 1 (Jun 25, 2016)

I have nothing bad to say about the Tesla. I think it is a marvel of advanced engineering. I think Tesla is setting the bar a little higher every year. More on the road will make a difference, but they have to be there for the long haul. I don't sense Tesela worrying about slow start. What will make a difference is price, how far it will go on a charge, and a solid long term warrenty.. 

My $.02.


----------



## Marine0311 (Mar 3, 2019)

I just changed my oil and filter on a 2011 Chevy Equinox after watching Yotube.

Youtube is your friend.

I would like to figure out how to change brake rotors and pads.


----------



## Ranger Psych (Mar 3, 2019)

Marine0311 said:


> I just changed my oil and filter on a 2011 Chevy Equinox after watching Yotube.
> 
> Youtube is your friend.
> 
> I would like to figure out how to change brake rotors and pads.



That's easy. Couple bolts to take the caliper off, pads fall right out of it at that point, depends on how the rotor's mounted to things as to how it comes off.

I do a decent bit of work on my big rig, as every hour I work on it is saving $100-200 an hour in tech fees. Some things I leave to the techs to do, as $400 for an oil change isn't that big a deal given the additionals they do plus having a dedicated bay to get under the truck, dispose of gallons and gallons of old oil, etc.


----------



## Centermass (Mar 5, 2019)

I have 400 plus sockets and no 10mm's are anywhere to be found.........


----------



## Diamondback 2/2 (Mar 5, 2019)

Centermass said:


> I have 400 plus sockets and no 10mm's are anywhere to be found.........



Those damn 10mm's growing legs and running off every time you need one.  Pretty sure they are the most lost sockets of all time.  It's like my washing machine,  just always eating one of my socks,  not just every once in a while,  but every goddamn time.  Pretty sure that stupid machine keeps spitting them out under the machine,  behind doors,  under the bed... Sneaky fucker.


----------



## Marine0311 (Mar 5, 2019)

I had to buy a 32mk socket which is cut a certain way? From AutoZone to take my oil filter off.

More important project is to figure out why my dot window sticks. I think the lift motor is basically shot or it's off the track.


----------



## Centermass (Mar 5, 2019)

Marine0311 said:


> I had to buy a 32mk socket which is cut a certain way? From AutoZone to take my oil filter off.



Probably Star (Or 8 point) sockets. Great for lag bolts, square heads and thread taps. 



Marine0311 said:


> More important project is to figure out why my dot window sticks. I think the lift motor is basically shot or it's off the track.



Silicone lubricant on the channels usually helps.


----------



## Brill (Mar 6, 2019)

Centermass said:


> Silicone lubricant on the channels usually helps.



And how!


----------



## Marine0311 (Mar 6, 2019)

Centermass said:


> Probably Star (Or 8 point) sockets. Great for lag bolts, square heads and thread taps.
> 
> 
> 
> Silicone lubricant on the channels usually helps.



Take the door panel off?


----------



## Centermass (Mar 6, 2019)

Marine0311 said:


> Take the door panel off?



Can you hear the window regulator motor running or working? If so, and you can at least roll down the window, then, apply the silicone to channels.  If the vehicle is old, and this doesn't work, then it's probably time to replace the regulator assembly with a new one.


----------



## Marine0311 (Mar 7, 2019)

Centermass said:


> Can you hear the window regulator motor running or working? If so, and you can at least roll down the window, then, apply the silicone to channels.  If the vehicle is old, and this doesn't work, then it's probably time to replace the regulator assembly with a new one.



It struggles and I have to use my hand to pull the window up, mostly in cold weather.


----------



## compforce (Mar 7, 2019)

well...  bought a 2006 Jeep Liberty that runs great, minor body work needed for $1k as-is from a dealer.  I replaced a broken door latch, the battery and the shocks for the liftgate.  Found out after the fact that the low beams don't work (facepalm).  Everything else is perfect.  All in all, what I thought was a great deal.  Heck, replacing the windshield on my car runs right at $1500 and it gets multiple rock chips every time I drive into work.  So if I drive the jeep until the windshield is destroyed and then throw it away, I still come out ahead.  Unfortunately I have to drive early morning when I go to work, which really doesn't happen thanks to the low beams.

On to those pesky low beams.  I was able to find the Jeep KJ service manual online.  BTW, I have a site where you can get almost any Jeep Service Manual if anyone needs theirs, much more detailed than Haynes or Chilton.  I started chasing down the fault and got to a place where it's got to be either the junction block or the BCM.  All of the fuses are good.  The low beam relay is good.  All of the wires show end-to-end continuity.  I replaced the junction block....no joy.  I sent the BCM off to a company that rebuilds the components that are no longer made....no joy.  I'm now sitting here with a Jeep that has no faults that I can find but whose lights just won't work.  I get continuity everywhere, voltages test out properly.  There is nothing left that could be broken.  I went so far as to buy an Autel scanner, which reports "Low Beam Relay High".  When I actuate the relay, you can hear the audible click of it engaging.  I have nowhere else to go with this thing.  

Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## medicchick (Mar 7, 2019)

Headlight/multifunction switch bad?

_*_edit_ -_I'm assuming you changed the bulbs already...lol


----------



## Centermass (Mar 7, 2019)

compforce said:


> well...  bought a 2006 Jeep Liberty that runs great, minor body work needed for $1k as-is from a dealer.  I replaced a broken door latch, the battery and the shocks for the liftgate.  Found out after the fact that the low beams don't work (facepalm).  Everything else is perfect.  All in all, what I thought was a great deal.  Heck, replacing the windshield on my car runs right at $1500 and it gets multiple rock chips every time I drive into work.  So if I drive the jeep until the windshield is destroyed and then throw it away, I still come out ahead.  Unfortunately I have to drive early morning when I go to work, which really doesn't happen thanks to the low beams.
> 
> On to those pesky low beams.  I was able to find the Jeep KJ service manual online.  BTW, I have a site where you can get almost any Jeep Service Manual if anyone needs theirs, much more detailed than Haynes or Chilton.  I started chasing down the fault and got to a place where it's got to be either the junction block or the BCM.  All of the fuses are good.  The low beam relay is good.  All of the wires show end-to-end continuity.  I replaced the junction block....no joy.  I sent the BCM off to a company that rebuilds the components that are no longer made....no joy.  I'm now sitting here with a Jeep that has no faults that I can find but whose lights just won't work.  I get continuity everywhere, voltages test out properly.  There is nothing left that could be broken.  I went so far as to buy an Autel scanner, which reports "Low Beam Relay High".  When I actuate the relay, you can hear the audible click of it engaging.  I have nowhere else to go with this thing.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas?



Replace the multifunction switch.


----------



## Centermass (Mar 7, 2019)

It's actually a pretty easy repair if you have the tools. Just have to be careful when it comes to the airbag and taking the proper precautions before hand.


----------



## Diamondback 2/2 (Mar 7, 2019)

Or just bypass the switch, wire out a couple toggles on the dash for low/high and call it good.  If it's a work beater, a simple bypass would probably be the cheapest solution.


----------



## compforce (Mar 7, 2019)

Multifunction switch is good.  We tried it with a second one and same results.


----------



## compforce (Mar 7, 2019)

Here are the things I have done so far, and yes, I changed the bulbs as the very first step:


----------



## Diamondback 2/2 (Mar 7, 2019)

Have you checked the connectors with voltage meter? 
Checked fuses under dash and hood?  Tested bulbs? 
Outside of a blown fuse, relay, or bulb,  you are possibly looking at a wire harness issue,  possibly failure to ground. 

I have a buddy who worked for a Chrysler dealership mechanic shop,  I'll text him and find out what he says.


----------



## compforce (Mar 7, 2019)

Diamondback 2/2 said:


> Have you checked the connectors with voltage meter?
> Checked fuses under dash and hood?  Tested bulbs?
> Outside of a blown fuse, relay, or bulb,  you are possibly looking at a wire harness issue,  possibly failure to ground.
> 
> I have a buddy who worked for a Chrysler dealership mechanic shop,  I'll text him and find out what he says.



All voltages look right.  The Voltage test of the B+ circuit from the last step in the service manual diagnostics above was high at 12V, which prompted the rebuild of the BCM.
PDM 50A fuse, 2X 10A fuses and 1X 20A fuse identified from the circuit diagram are all good (I tested 100% of the fuses for continuity with the voltmeter even if they weren't related)
New Bulbs, continuity test shows good on both circuits and high beams work properly.  Low beams work when ground pin on magnet side of the relay is jumped to a ground.

It could potentially be a ground, but if it is, it's inside the BCM as the junction block has continuity from the common ground leaving the BCM into the junction block and from the junction block to the pin in question on the relay.  The BCM as I mentioned was sent to a company that fixes/remanufactures them and has a lifetime warranty.  I'm planning to call them tomorrow morning and see if they can verify that it's an internal ground in the BCM.  The paperwork they sent me when they returned the module explicitly shows all the grounds as working properly.

BTW, this issue is the same with both the old junction block and the new one.  Unless I just had the bad coincidence of getting two junction blocks with exactly the same issue, it can't be the block.


----------



## Polar Bear (Mar 7, 2019)

You tube it. If it is a ground I can steal it an d burn it to the ground


----------



## Diamondback 2/2 (Mar 7, 2019)

So my buddy says, that you need to trace the wire harness between head light connection to relay,  from relay to switch, look for broken, burnt, or corroded wires. If it's got power, at the headlights than your looking for a bad ground. Normally found at the pin connection, His words.


----------



## Brill (Mar 8, 2019)

@compforce , did you try power cycling the unit? Does the problem still occur when driving another vehicle?


----------



## compforce (Mar 12, 2019)

Diamondback 2/2 said:


> So my buddy says, that you need to trace the wire harness between head light connection to relay,  from relay to switch, look for broken, burnt, or corroded wires. If it's got power, at the headlights than your looking for a bad ground. Normally found at the pin connection, His words.



Well, traced through and I get a good ground at the wire that feeds into the BCM.  That goes through the BCM and junction block to get to the relay pin that I can directly ground to turn on the headlights.  Time to warranty the work that was done on the BCM, it's the only part that isn't just a direct line to the ground.


----------



## compforce (Mar 27, 2019)

So...  Just to close the loop.  The BCM had damage to the PCB.  They replaced the BCM with a remanufactured one and now the Jeep works fine.


----------

