# So pissed.



## 104TN (Mar 19, 2009)

The battery on my camera is dead so I can't take pictures to show you, but the slide of my shiny new 1911 looks like it got mauled by an angry putty-cat.

I shot it for about an hour last night and was blown away. Doubly so because the barrel's really not even broken in. 

So I busted my baby out a few hours ago to give her a more thorough cleaning than the brief wipe down I gave her last night...then I noticed that the top of the slide and the area around the recoil spring plug look like they got "keyed" for lack of a better description. 

Apparently the oxide coating got scratched off by my holster. I know it happens over time but I was NOT that rough. Anyone have any recommendations for a good coating/shop to do it?

I was thinking about sending it in to Wilson (ironic no?) for their Armor-Tuff coating.

So pissed. Had to share.


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## pardus (Mar 19, 2009)

Call Kimber and ask them about it, tell them you are not happy :2c:


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## Polar Bear (Mar 19, 2009)

Should have bought a Glock...Oh wait you have little kid hands


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## 104TN (Mar 19, 2009)

Try breathing through your nose for a bit Hoss. You might get some more O2 to your brain that way.


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## The91Bravo (Mar 19, 2009)

I had the same thing happen to my HK USP vs. Blackhawk holster.  Same situation exactly... new gun, expect it to wear over time, etc, etc.. Put it in the holster first day and the side of the slide (flat side right side, between front sight, and ej port) got GOUGED.

I feel in the holster, there is a burr.  I lightly sanded it, and cut a small portion of Moleskin for BOTH sides of the holster inside.  Snugged it up a little, and All I had to do was black the moleskin with a Sharpie.

I figured it would wear over time, but DAYUM!!! not the first day.  I considered bitchin at Blackhawk and try to make them pony up for a re-finish, but I love the gun, and did not want to send it away to anyone.

My lesson learned, was check ALL my gear before sliding something shiny in it. 

My .02


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## 104TN (Mar 19, 2009)

Ain't that a bitch? I might run and get some fine grain paper tomorrow and just smooth it out. It's still irking me.


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## The91Bravo (Mar 19, 2009)

pardus762 said:


> Call Kimber and ask them about it, tell them you are not happy :2c:



X2

It is worth a shot... get it... Shot... I kill myself.. LOL

Dave at Tn Gun Country has a smith he refers folks to, but I do not know where his business card is.  Actually just found it in my wallet.  I have not seen any of his work, but here is his info.

Custom Gunsmithing LLC
Hal Wade, owner
755 Knox Road
Chapmansboro, TN 37035
(615)505-9626 Shop/Fax
(931)237-4722
www.tncustomgunsmithing.com

I have been to his shop/range but never looked at his smithing, since I did not know he was a Smith when I was there.  But Dave is referring people to him, and I work with a guy (named Bidwell) that used to work out there.  They both speak highly of him, and if I need some Smithing, I would call him for a quote, sight unseen.

Good Luck
Steve

*ETA:  Found a price sheet for his basic jobs:*

Shop Work Performed

Cleaning


 $   35.00

Reblue standard firearm


 $   85.00

Reblue A5, M1, M1A, SXS, O/U


 $ 125.00

Parkerize Rifle


 $   95.00

Duracoat (1 color)


 $   65.00

Duracoat Pattern (minimum cost)


 $ 125.00

Adjust headspace (minimum) 


 $   50.00

Install new Barrel, Chamber, Headspace (Plus BBL Cost) Minimum


 $ 100.00

True and Blueprint action


 $   75.00

Install muzzle break (Incl Break)


 $   95.00

Thread barrel for suppressor


 $   45.00

Drill / Tap for scope (per hole)


 $     7.50

Glass bed and float barrel


 $   45.00

Install SAKO extractor in Rem 700


 $   75.00

Install Recoil pad (includes standard pad)


 $   50.00

Trigger adjustment (minimum)


 $   35.00

Cut barrel to custom length, recrown


 $   45.00

Install choke tube, per barrel (Tru-choke 12, 20g only) incl 1 std tube


 $   75.00

Color case harden receiver


 $   95.00

Adjust length of pull on rifle (minimum)


 $   25.00

Fire Lap barrel


 $   75.00

Boresight and zero rifle (minus ammunition)


 $   25.00

Install and adjust commercial trigger, plus trigger cost


 $   25.00

Install and adjust commercial set trigger, plus trigger cost


 $   35.00

Refinish stock (minimum)


 $   45.00

Checker stock (minimum)


 $ 150.00

Recut existing checkering


 $   50.00


I obviously do a lot more on guns than this, it is hard to set a definitive price on most other work I perform.  I don't charge a flat labor rate, or a fee to just touch your gun.  I price the job fairly and most importantly, I guarantee my work!  I do all general repairs on firearms from simple to complex.  I am however, going to stop taking in old, abused and neglected firearms or those so old parts are not readily available for them.  These guns take more time than I have to put in them and the repair cost would be way more than the gun would ever be worth.  If you have a problem with a gun and need work not listed above, bring it by the shop and I can give you an estimate of the cost and time involved and decide if the repairs are worth it.  I can't give you an accurate estimate without seeing the gun and it may take me a day or two to even get the estimate to you depending on my workload.


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## Ranger Psych (Mar 20, 2009)

I have wear on my HK's from holstering and use, but no gouges though. Perhaps you should look at a different holster? bladetech has worked well for me...


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## WillBrink (Mar 20, 2009)

rick said:


> I was thinking about sending it in to Wilson (ironic no?) for their Armor-Tuff coating.
> 
> So pissed. Had to share.



Like that first scratch on a new car, always sucks. I would call Kimber if it's really that bad, or send to Robar for one of their coatings, or go to leather. Good luck.


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## Boondocksaint375 (Mar 20, 2009)

Polar Bear said:


> Should have bought a Glock...Oh wait you have little kid hands



More like SIG ;)


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## Diamondback 2/2 (Mar 20, 2009)

Duracoat it and be done with it... Shit wears off, spray it again... Unless of course its going to be a range queen, then send it back to Kimber... ;)


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## 104TN (Mar 20, 2009)

WillBrink said:


> Like that first scratch on a new car, always sucks. I would call Kimber if it's really that bad, or send to Robar for one of their coatings, or go to leather. Good luck.



Yeah, but at the same time it'd be one thing if it was just wear from a couple months (or years) of use, but to have the finish come off the first day? BS. 

I was actually able to take a little off with my thumbnail just testing. That's a crappy finish job.

I've been looking at Robar and Coal Creek Armory to do the blackening job. 'ppreciate the recommendation. I'm open to others too.


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## WillBrink (Mar 20, 2009)

rick said:


> Yeah, but at the same time it'd be one thing if it was just wear from a couple months (or years) of use, but to have the finish come off the first day? BS.
> 
> I was actually able to take a little off with my thumbnail just testing. That's a crappy finish job.
> 
> I've been looking at Robar and Coal Creek Armory to do the blackening job. 'ppreciate the recommendation. I'm open to others too.




If you can scratch it off with a thumbnail, then yes, that's a crap job. Personally, I would send it back. If not, Robar has by far the most experience with various very tough coatings.


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## koz (Mar 20, 2009)

rick said:


> I've been looking at Robar and Coal Creek Armory to do the blackening job. 'ppreciate the recommendation. I'm open to others too.



I'd also look at Cerakote

You can do it yourself and buy it at Brownells.  If you do it yourself, you need to do a very good job prepping the metal. You'll also need a HVLP sprayer to apply the coating.

I'd bet CCA's ceramic coat is Cerakote.

Some custom knife makers are now using Cerakote on their knives...


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## The91Bravo (Mar 20, 2009)

rick said:


> Yeah, but at the same time it'd be one thing if it was just wear from a couple months (or years) of use, but to have the finish come off the first day? BS.
> 
> I was actually able to take a little off with my thumbnail just testing. That's a crappy finish job.
> 
> I've been looking at Robar and Coal Creek Armory to do the blackening job. 'ppreciate the recommendation. I'm open to others too.




I can probably find a friend with a Hi-Point to trade even with you... You may have to pay them a little, but... you know...  

If the finish comes off that easy, then Kimber needs to fix it


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## dusty (Mar 20, 2009)

Wilson might put an ArmorTuff finish on it for you.


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## 104TN (Mar 20, 2009)

koz said:


> I'd also look at Cerakote
> 
> You can do it yourself and buy it at Brownells.  If you do it yourself, you need to do a very good job prepping the metal. You'll also need a HVLP sprayer to apply the coating.
> 
> ...



CCA does this treatment called Melonite which is probably the same thing.

This post on 1911forum.com shows a treated gun before and after 10k rounds that really impressed the hell out of me (posted with mod. permission).


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