# Refinishing Wood Gun Furniture



## Topkick (Mar 10, 2018)

I am refinishing the wood on an AK 47. It's my only wood gun and my first time refinishing. I've sanded her down and would like some tips on how to apply the staining process. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


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## Ooh-Rah (Mar 10, 2018)

Hey Top,

Just a shot in the dark, but by chance have you tried YouTube?  I cannot imagine there are not at least a few videos that demonstrate what you want to do.


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## Topkick (Mar 10, 2018)

Yeah, I have been looking at videos but there are different ideas on how to best do it. Wondering if any Shadowspearians could provide lessons learned from trial and error.


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## DC (Mar 10, 2018)

Tung oil it


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## Downtown “Funky Stuff” Malone🍆 (Mar 10, 2018)

Use a lint free cloth or an old flannel shirt. Motion depends on the grain of the wood. When did m M14 (M1A1) stock that was walnut I did small circular motions. You can also use straight lines from front to back. I typically over saturate the wood with the stain and wipe off the excess.

Do you plan to do a polyurethane top coat?


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## Downtown “Funky Stuff” Malone🍆 (Mar 10, 2018)

DC said:


> Tung oil it



An excellent option!


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## Topkick (Mar 10, 2018)

Yep, I was planning to use polyurethane after iodine orange stain.


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## Downtown “Funky Stuff” Malone🍆 (Mar 10, 2018)

Sanding is very important to the application of stain and the polyurethane top coat. Google that shit to see the sand paper grit progression.


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## Topkick (Mar 10, 2018)

DC said:


> Tung oil it


Is Tung oil applied alone?


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## CQB (Mar 10, 2018)

I had a similar situation & a mate sent me this email: 
- sand paper – 180, 400 and 800 grades.
- paint stripper. There are 3 different types, buy the cheapest.
- Small paint brush to apply the stripper – buy the cheapest one. Make sure it small enough to fit in the top of the stripper container (if not pour it into a container).
- a scraper to scrap the paint stripper off – you could use an old knife or anything similar.
- scrubbing brush with stiff nylon bristles. 
- if you are French polishing, then French polish (its made up as a liquid). You don’t need much, get the small one. Or you can make your own from shellac flakes and metho – dissolve the flakes in the metho. They are together on the same shelf. Or you can try one of the other wood finishing products on the same shelf.

From the supermarket you will need to buy washing soda (in the dishwashing section I think). You can’t buy it at Bunnings.

Apply the stripper with a paint brush. Cake it on thickly, the thicker the better. It should start working on varnish after a few minutes. After it bubbles up, scrap it off. Use newspaper to clean the scraper. Try not to let it dry out. Dissolve a handful of washing soda in hot water in a bucket. Its harmless (its a water softener). Dip the brush in the water and vigorously scrub the wood – dip the brush lots of times in the water. After its been well scrubbed, hose it off (garden hose) or in the laundry sink. Its best to dry this in the sun, you don’t want to leave the wood wet for too long.
The wood should now be good as new.
Now sand it down. Start with rough paper, say around 180. Brush it vigorously with a soft brush (I use a dust pan brush) to get the dust off. Then sand with 400 grade, brush again and finally sand with 800 grade and brush. The wood should be very smooth by now. If you are French polishing you can’t have the surface too smooth. Finally wipe the dust off with a cloth dipped in metho.

I then applied a coat of Feast Watson Sanding Sealer to fill in the grain but you don’t really need this (you will also need turps if you use this, to clean the brush). You will still get a good result without sealing.
Now use French polish or whatever else you want to use.
If you are using French polish apply it using as soft cloth – l use muslin but flannelette is good. You can also apply with a paint brush but be careful because brushes can put too much on. The secret is many thin coatings. Scrunch it into a ball and dip the tip of the ball in the polish (its a liquid) and wipe it across the wood in the direction of the grain. Only wipe once on each area – French polish dries almost immediately (its lacquer dissolved in metho and the metho evaporates). If you wipe more than once on the same area it will be tacky and the cloth will stick. It should dry enough for a second coat in less than 30 minutes, depending on temperature and humidity. Apply more coats – the more coats you have the deeper the lustre. After say 3 coats give it a very light sand with 800 grade paper. Then wipe with a cloth dipped in metho to remove the dust. All up do 4, 5 or 6 coats, whatever you want. If you are keen you can sand very lightly after each coat for a super smooth finish (I didn’t).


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## Downtown “Funky Stuff” Malone🍆 (Mar 10, 2018)

Yes. Most oils applied to wood have no top coat. They naturally preserve the wood and repel water. Oil will have to be continuesly reapplied. I spent most of my summers applying teak oil to my grandfathers boat.


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## Topkick (Mar 10, 2018)

This is the why I love Shadowspear. I have learned more in 10 minutes than a whole day on YouTube!


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## Topkick (Mar 10, 2018)

I just read somewhere that you can apply polyurethane over tung oil. Recommend? Any advantages or disadvantages to a top coat over oil?


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## Downtown “Funky Stuff” Malone🍆 (Mar 10, 2018)

It's  my experience that there is no need to top coat oiled wood. If you oil, much like leather, oil annually.


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## Red Flag 1 (Mar 10, 2018)

Topkick said:


> I am refinishing the wood on an
> AK 47. It's my only wood gun and my first time refinishing. I've sanded her down and would like some tips on how to apply the staining process. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


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## RackMaster (Mar 11, 2018)

It's been year's since I refinished a gun but have a couple that could use a freshening up.  Following for ideas.


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## DC (Mar 11, 2018)

Topkick said:


> Is Tung oil applied alone?


Yes or you can stain it first. I like the tung oil only because it seals and waterproofs the wood. Maybe do a similar piece of wood with tung/stain and another tung and see how you like it.


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## Topkick (Mar 11, 2018)

I am using Tung Oil. After two coats, it looking good. I wish it was darker but the grain is showing up good. That's something I am hoping for. I'll post up the finished product as soon as its complete.


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## DC (Mar 11, 2018)

Topkick said:


> I am using Tung Oil. After two coats, it looking good. I wish it was darker but the grain is showing up good. That's something I am hoping for. I'll post up the finished product as soon as its complete.


Do you have a leather sling on that beast?


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## Topkick (Mar 11, 2018)

DC said:


> Do you have a leather sling on that beast?



No, a surplus Russian Army issue sling


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## DC (Mar 11, 2018)

Ahh ok. Neatsfoot oil the best for outdoor exposed leather if you go that route.


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## Downtown “Funky Stuff” Malone🍆 (Mar 11, 2018)

This thread is making me want to get another M1 Garand from the CMP.


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## DC (Mar 11, 2018)

Better yet buy a M1A and do new wood furniture.


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## Gunz (Mar 14, 2018)

If you want a real authentic looking AK, tie it to the back of your truck and drag it around for a few years.


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## Topkick (Mar 14, 2018)

Ocoka said:


> If you want a real authentic looking AK, tie it to the back of your truck and drag it around for a few years.



It would probably still function like a champ.


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## Gunz (Mar 15, 2018)

Topkick said:


> It would probably still function like a champ.




Absolutely. Some of the AKs now in AFG could've fired at Americans in Vietnam.


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## Topkick (Mar 15, 2018)

The old saying is "an AK 47 is so simple a child can use it, and they do." The simplicity is what makes them so dependable and popular around the globe. I am not a bandwagon gangsta AK guy, I just appreciate the design.


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## SpitfireV (Jul 24, 2018)

Hey Top, do you happen to have those pics of how this turned out? I'm thinking about redoing the stock on my M305.


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## Topkick (Jul 24, 2018)

SpitfireV said:


> Hey Top, do you happen to have those pics of how this turned out? I'm thinking about redoing the stock on my M305.


I haven't finished because I ended up getting Magpul furniture for the AK for my birthday. I did put 4 coats of Tung oil on and it really shows the grain well, but it needs a couple more coats. Thanks for reminding me to get back on it.


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## SpitfireV (Jul 24, 2018)

I'll forgive you for taking the wood furniture off it...I shouldn't but I will.


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## Topkick (Jul 24, 2018)

No worries...I have another AK with wood.


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## Topkick (Jul 24, 2018)

SpitfireV said:


> Hey Top, do you happen to have those pics of how this turned out? I'm thinking about redoing the stock on my M305.


The Tung oil alone is not dark enough. In retrospect, I wish I would've stained in Russian red or orange to give it a more traditional look. The M14 looks better with dark wood too, IMO. That's obviously personal preference though.


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## SpitfireV (Jul 24, 2018)

Topkick said:


> The Tung oil alone is not dark enough. In retrospect, I wish I would've stained in Russian red or orange to give it a more traditional look. The M14 looks better with dark wood too, IMO. That's obviously personal preference though.



I agree. I've seen a few lighter stocked M14s and it's not to my taste.


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