Let's see that shooter

This might be worthy of it's own thread.

Slight issue with the KAC URX4 install.

20200507_103154.jpg

Message from a KAC rep "That landed in worst possible spot." -Ash Hess

No kidding.

My problem solve solution is maybe ball head allen set so I ordered one. I won't be as aggressive because I don't want to strip anything. I think the better solution is to say F it, and have a local to me precision rifle company mill a bit off just enough to reach it properly. It doesn't have to be pretty and function over form is the golden rule, personally speaking.
 
Tinman6 said:
A dremel will fix that. It’s on the bottom. But, I am one to not mind. Having to chop on expensive equipment. Just me though.
However, a ball headed Allen will probably suffice. From the look of it.
Or remove the rail and secure the set screws.
Would also recommend staking them as well. This is all just my .02.
Click to expand...
Not sure if you're aware but you can't secure those screws until after the installation of the tube. How the URX4 installs is but sliding the barrel through the tube, and then using the tube itself as the barrel nut to time at the 11, torque until aligned with a breaker bar and their wrench attached, install tube on the block already, slide down and pray for a perfect alignment, tighten with rockset applied prior to, and done.

Video from KAC about it:

 
Front fell off.

It's a good thing I go to matches or courses with spare rifles.

yTeSzIl.jpg
 
Tinman6 said:
Keep a spare bolt in the grip. Small parts, etc. in the tubes on the B5 stock.
Click to expand...
I have that too, but if they let you redo or run later, it's best to have something mission capable now. Same for classes. Some instructors love taking pics for their fans as a teaching moment on social medias, so I use that time to get the replacement and no one stays upset with me if anyone was upset.

That was a BCM bolt by the way.
 
That’s too bad about your bolt. BCM is good stuff. Guess there is always the one that got through QC. Only to take a dump on you later. I got about 1500 rds on the Colt bolt in my Colt/ Geissele hybrid. I am just now starting to gain enough faith in it as a service ready weapon though.
I have seen more than a few “great” Bolts fail. It always sucks.
I have tried using some the enhanced bolts out there. Always end up back at using a plain old mil-spec Colt. Or other individually inspected and tested mil-spec bolt. I haven’t had any problems out of Carpenter 158 steel.
 
The Quartermaster said:
This might be worthy of it's own thread.

Slight issue with the KAC URX4 install.

View attachment 33783

Message from a KAC rep "That landed in worst possible spot." -Ash Hess

No kidding.

My problem solve solution is maybe ball head allen set so I ordered one. I won't be as aggressive because I don't want to strip anything. I think the better solution is to say F it, and have a local to me precision rifle company mill a bit off just enough to reach it properly. It doesn't have to be pretty and function over form is the golden rule, personally speaking.
Click to expand...

I love KAC, but I loathe working on it. Aside from the RAS/RIS, nothing seems to go right for me.

My guns are tools, things to be shot and used, function over form. Me, I'd dremel that one slot a little and make it work.
 
Devildoc said:
I love KAC, but I loathe working on it. Aside from the RAS/RIS, nothing seems to go right for me.

My guns are tools, things to be shot and used, function over form. Me, I'd dremel that one slot a little and make it work.
Click to expand...
I actually have a much better plan of attack right now. Remove tube and block. Unscrew the URX4 leaving the timing shims there, move tube until I get proper clearance to tighten both bolts along with a prior swipe with rockset. Screw the tube back where it needs to be for proper timing, torque to back to spec. The pain in the ass is what comes next; threading the needle a thousand times by inserting the tube through the bolt side of the receiver, and magically try to line it up. If done right, roll pin starter punch the gas tube pin and continue with the regular roll pin punch.

If that fails, I make an appointment with LRK Mechanical here in town, and have just enough material milled off. I'm a function over form guy muself so I have no problems withit being done, plus a rail for a QD bipod will be there so no one would actually see it
 

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