Mountaineering course

mike_cos

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some of you have followed this course? If so, where climbing to keep you in training?

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Chopstick

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Oh yes..the leaves and pretty waterfall make me even dizzier! :p
Oh and it took me a minute to find you. Where's Waldo?
 

Crusader74

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I see there are bolts on that route.. What grade is that route?

Over here in Ireland and the UK, bolts are against the law.. If you want to climb, you do with these

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and these
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and these
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mike_cos

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I see there are bolts on that route.. What grade is that route?

Over here in Ireland and the UK, bolts are against the law..

Irish I knew it... we use nuts too.... but these are training routes... from 5 to 7+ grade... in my pics there is a 6+ with only one bolt to 7... have you been on the Alps?
 

HOLLiS

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Irish, Yes, there was a controversy in Mountain Mag long about about bolts. In the States it varies. Old rule was, how made the route could bolt it and that is it. When climbing became popular, people started bolting like crazy. Some to make the routes easier/safer. I did some slate walls in Whales that were rated 5.8 Death. 120 ft apron, first bolt, 40 ft off of the deck, second bolt 80 ft off of the deck, third bolt at the end of the route. Slate is a really neat media to climb. Probably worse is the granite in Mexico, very sharp.

Great photos. I don't have many digitized, this is a old one. First American Ascent of the Falcon in the Crimea. Appox 1500- 1600M wall. rated 5.11 or something like that. We videoed the climb. We were also the first foreigner in this area which was closed since the war.

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HOLLiS

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Question, I have not paid attention to the grading system. I did not know about grade 7. Grade 6 was AID climbing. That was done alot before climbing shoes became very good. Except for a few places, I think bolt ladders are passe'. I don't know many people who AID climb anymore. Pitons are considered worse than bolts as far as degrading a route. I don't think they sell bashies anymore. Soft nuts that were pounded into a crack. Some old nuts were also designed for piton scars.

When I started climbing, manila rope was used and we used real nuts (from the hardware store).

Nice to see someone on the sharp end of the rope too. I can tell you of a funny story at Smith's Rocks, OR. A 5.8 climb, two old fat guys in lycra and all new gear where holding people up, trying to get there act together to make the climb. One guy says to the other guy, "This is not like the rock gym."

My preference was Alpine and ski descents.
 

mike_cos

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When I started climbing, manila rope was used and we used real nuts (from the hardware store).

"This is not like the rock gym."

Me too hollis...only one prob... the weight..... I started 27 years ago.... now I descent caves...
in this graphic our rock gym with grades... (same place of my pics above)

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HOLLiS

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Mike, thanks, looks like a different rating system from my memory, (Euro?) We have a numeric class, 1 ..to.. 6 than a over all difficulty that is used in Mountaineering, Class I, II, III. Routes can have a over all rating, (sustain difficulty) or have a notation that there is a hard move on the route. Like sustained 5.11, means it is all or mostly 5.11 in difficulty. Or a 5.6 with a 5.11 move. In the US, the probably the best all around book, is Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills, by the Mountaineers (as climbing club in Seattle).

We have some nice lava tubes here. They are beautiful at the entrances and just a hole after that. They are not a pretty as limestone caves. One lava tube, going down is a hour glass shape. The moss and lighting in the first cavern is beautiful, then the bottom cavern in darker and tubes going off, much like a mine shaft. I have been in some limestone caves in several states, awe inspiring to say the least.
 

mike_cos

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Mike, thanks, looks like a different rating system from my memory, (Euro?) We have a numeric class, 1 ..to.. 6 than a over all difficulty that is used in Mountaineering, Class I, II, III. Routes can have a over all rating, (sustain difficulty) or have a notation that there is a hard move on the route. Like sustained 5.11, means it is all or mostly 5.11 in difficulty. Or a 5.6 with a 5.11 move. In the US, the probably the best all around book, is Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills, by the Mountaineers (as climbing club in Seattle).

We have some nice lava tubes here. They are beautiful at the entrances and just a hole after that. They are not a pretty as limestone caves. One lava tube, going down is a hour glass shape. The moss and lighting in the first cavern is beautiful, then the bottom cavern in darker and tubes going off, much like a mine shaft. I have been in some limestone caves in several states, awe inspiring to say the least.
....stay tuned... I'll post video....
 

HOLLiS

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Thank you for the video. When I was in Mountain Rescue one of members was a member of a Gratto (SP? caving group). He was pretty high speed and was also involved in cave rescue. He was on the rescue of the gal in Arizona who broke her leg some 1 mile down/from entrance of a cave. Took a long time to get her out. I started caving before I got into rock climbing.
 

mike_cos

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Thank you for the video. When I was in Mountain Rescue one of members was a member of a Gratto (SP? caving group). He was pretty high speed and was also involved in cave rescue. He was on the rescue of the gal in Arizona who broke her leg some 1 mile down/from entrance of a cave. Took a long time to get her out. I started caving before I got into rock climbing.
Amazing.... you enjoy cave diving too?...
 

x SF med

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I use to enjoy caving. There is not much where I live now. So Alpine climbing filled the void. the Northwet has some very nice mountains.

No it doesn't. Ignore Hollis, we have no mountains, none. It's flat, wet, cold, crowded, urban and ugly. (Shhhhhhhhh. don't tell them about our mountains, next thing you know you'll tell them about the microbreweries and wineries too.... Why I autta...)
 

Crusader74

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Irish I knew it... we use nuts too.... but these are training routes... from 5 to 7+ grade... in my pics there is a 6+ with only one bolt to 7... have you been on the Alps?
Not in the Alps... We send 4 Instructors to Switzerland every year to Swiss Army mountaineering school for 3 weeks.. I hope to go next year.
 
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