Weapons oil question/situation


BNDN - Been Nowhere Done Nothing
Verified Military
Jul 1, 2007
In a van, down by the river...
The other thread on WD-40 got me thinking... yeah right... (edit: me thinking, that is)

With the weps I got from my Father in law, I have a couple that have surface rust that has penetrated or destroyed the bluing, and need some suggestions.

I want to stop the rusting, and remove the current amount of rust, but do not want to re-finish the weapons.

So, what do I use?

I guess I need a penetrant, to stop the damage, and then should I use a green pad or steel wool to remove the rust?

Than what should I use to condition the raw steel and remaining bluing?

Thanks folks, as always I await enlightenment.. :D

The other thread on WD-40 got me thinking... yeah right...

Be careful where you use the green pad and steel wool

I am not a big weapons guru like some but I have found that some good ol' gun oil and a rag works just fine ;). For some heavy duty cleaning we used Simple Green.
To remove the rust try "brass wool" you can get it from Brownells. Its softer than the 000-steel wool and good for blued weapons. First try it out on an area that is not visible before using it all over (like under grips).

As for something to keep them from rusting again, try the heavy duty silicone spray. The kind I use is from Ace Hardware but, you can get it anywhere. The one I get comes in a red spray can. Make sure that its listed as good for high temp's.

I have used it on the exterior parts to keep moisture/rust away as well as inside internal parts. I have used it on our MP5's, M16's and shotguns without any problems. Another good thing about it is that the silicone makes cleaning easier too. With it as a coating on the metal parts first the dirt/powder residue wipes off easier and without heavy scrubbing. However, the bolts where the carbon builds up is still a pain in the ass to clean off.
For some heavy duty cleaning we used Simple Green.

Thats is interesting!

Guys back home would on occasion soak machine guns in vats of kerosine to get rid of carbon.

I used the green poly pads to remove rust from my service rifle, but that was painted, blued weapons will be damaged by the poly pad.

Rust is easier to prevent than cure...

I was given a WW2 ara 1911 by my dad, a few years back. It had some pitting and rust areas, I am sure the 1911 was parkerized at first. However, my dad must have had it refinished with bluing. Anyway, use CLP and a terry cloth. It takes a long time and your arms will get sore, but you will not screw up the gun. My reason for saying this is if you decide to refinish it in the future. The steel wool/ green pad, will leave a rough spot on the metal. Then you have to have the metal polished, and that could cause the bluing to come out different from the original finish.

When you get the surface rust off, make sure it is not pitting. If so, you will need to use a toothbrush and penetrating oil. (Softly) If you scrub too hard with a toothbrush, you can cause more wear in those areas.