Any serious Pool players on here?

[Diamondback 2/2]

So I was pretty serious about it as a kid growing up, had a bar table in the garage as a kid and spent almost all my extra time in a billiards room. Got fairly good, played a lot 8 ball, 9 ball and 3 ball for money and in local tournaments. Never gave it up, but stopped taking it as seriously in my mid/late 20's. Partially due to Army life, family life and just other interest. Here recently I started getting back into it, last month or so. Been going to "Clicks" a big table billiards room and working fundamentals and just putting in practice. I've played three bar table single elimination (no buy) 8 ball tournaments: First tournament I lost the first game by following the 8 on a run out, second tournament I took second place overall taking a righteous beating (I broke dropped 2, miss-cued, dude ran it off), third tournament I won commandingly.

This lil local bar tournament is kinda driving me to want to play more and more. Even thinking about getting into league (most likely APA). The group shooting this tournament are pretty good, and definitely make me keep focus.

I've got several nice McDermott cues, most are 15+ year old. Several are very expensive, but all need new shafts and tips. Not sure if I'm willing to sink the money on that right now, I picked up a cheap Chrystal Leisure cue a few weeks ago, put a medium soft tip on it and have been trying to time it out. Seems to fit my needs for now (basically bar stick, don't care if it gets broke, lost, stolen), but wondering if I should invest in some new equipment or repair my old stuff. If I do start shooting league, it will be inevitable, but honestly I've been a lift removed for a few years, and wondering if anyone had any advice or recommend product lines. I'm. No fool to the cost's, I've priced out new shafts and tips at around $230 a cue on my McDermott's, but I'm not too sure I'm willing to invest to that end right now.

What I really would like is a nice break/jump cue around 18oz with quality breaking tip, and a nice playing cue around 20oz, 12-13mm tapper nice balance, no wraps, quality medium/soft tip. I'm more of a traditional style cue guy, but as of right now price dictated.

Also, if anyone on here is in the San Antonio area, and wants to link up for a few game's, shoot me a PM.

 

[metalmom]

I do play pool-hate snooker though. Apparently from all you said-I am no where close to you. Won a few bucks and only do call shots.Far from a pro-but have worked on my bank shots for yrs.Dont even own my own cue. I love pool. Even if Ilived close to you would order you about 6 B52s before we played.lol. Seriously-its phenom you are so good at it.

 

[Diamondback 2/2]

I'm not pro, nor have I've ever been at a pro level. Local tournaments and pot games are about as good as I've ever gotten. But I've gotta a little bit of drive to get involved again.

 

[Ranger Psych]

@compforce DING DING

The only time I use pool cue's is as an implement of conducting corrective training on unruly bargoing derps

 

[Diamondback 2/2]

@compforce DING DING

The only time I use pool cue's is as an implement of conducting corrective training on unruly bargoing derps

Good to know.

 

[compforce]

@compforce DING DING

The only time I use pool cue's is as an implement of conducting corrective training on unruly bargoing derps

hey! Now I can't hustle him..

I played as a regional pro (Florida Pro Tour/Seminole Tour) for 12 years and then was one of the first Touring Pros on the edit: typo here, not APA, UPA (the National Tour) The United States Professional Poolplayers Association (UPA). I never made it into the big time, but did play a few tournaments. I was that guy that was better than everyone in the area, but not good enough to move further, solidly at the top of the grey area between semi-pro and pro. In hustling language I was a shortstop. On September 11 I was in VA playing the second day of the US Open 9-ball Tournament when the towers went down. That was the last big tourney I played. My focus has been elsewhere since.

As far as equipment, I have a Brunswick Gold Crown V table. I use a 25 year old Meucci as a break cue and McDermott for my playing cue. When I stopped being serious about it, the tournaments weren't allowing jump cues or shaft jumps, you had to use your playing cue to jump and breaking the cue down was the signal for a forfeit/concession.

McDermott will refurb the base of the cues for $175 and the shafts cost in the range of $95-$200 direct from them depending on model. You should give them a call. Tips are all about preference, I still like LePro Medium Hard for the playing cue. Predator makes some solid shafts if you want to go that route. They take a little getting used to, but you'll be more accurate once you do. The main thing to look for on the jump/break cue is the tip. You want a very hard, composite tip. Keep the break cue light, it's all about technique and speed (you can push a light cue faster than you can push a heavy one). Predator makes a good jump/break also.

 

[Etype]

I play Marco Polo with my kids, that's the only pool game I'm good at.

 

[Diamondback 2/2]

hey! Now I can't hustle him..

I played as a regional pro (Florida Pro Tour/Seminole Tour) for 12 years and then was one of the first Touring Pros on the APA (the National Tour). I never made it into the big time, but did play a few tournaments. I was that guy that was better than everyone in the area, but not good enough to move further, solidly at the top of the grey area between semi-pro and pro. In hustling language I was a shortstop. On September 11 I was in VA playing the second day of the US Open 9-ball Tournament when the towers went down. That was the last big tourney I played. My focus has been elsewhere since.

As far as equipment, I have a Brunswick Gold Crown V table. I use a 25 year old Meucci as a break cue and McDermott for my playing cue. When I stopped being serious about it, the tournaments weren't allowing jump cues or shaft jumps, you had to use your playing cue to jump and breaking the cue down was the signal for a forfeit/concession.

McDermott will refurb the base of the cues for $175 and the shafts cost in the range of $95-$200 direct from them depending on model. You should give them a call. Tips are all about preference, I still like LePro Medium Hard for the playing cue. Predator makes some solid shafts if you want to go that route. They take a little getting used to, but you'll be more accurate once you do. The main thing to look for on the jump/break cue is the tip. You want a very hard, composite tip. Keep the break cue light, it's all about technique and speed (you can push a light cue faster than you can push a heavy one). Predator makes a good jump/break also.

So you recommend Predator?

There is a local shop that is a licensed McDermott sales/repair shop. The prices I got from them was under the warranty. Couldn't tell the the tip brands however, I've always just told Pete whatever the best medium soft you have. I appreciate the advice on the Predator line, I'm going to check them out this afternoon.

And no, we ain't playing for money up front, going to have to test the waters with you (Mr. Top of the gray area between semi pro and pro).

 

[compforce]

So you recommend Predator?

There is a local shop that is a licensed McDermott sales/repair shop. The prices I got from them was under the warranty. Couldn't tell the the tip brands however, I've always just told Pete whatever the best medium soft you have. I appreciate the advice on the Predator line, I'm going to check them out this afternoon.

And no, we ain't playing for money up front, going to have to test the waters with you (Mr. Top of the gray area between semi pro and pro).

Predator's shafts have been the standard on the tour for at least the last 10-12 years Predator Cues: High Performance Pool Cues, Shafts and Gear. I only mention their break/jump cue because the shaft and tip are the important parts for those functions. Ray Martin has a jump cue that is second to none for the way it works (it's not a break cue, just jump), but it's about the ugliest damned thing you ever saw. Most people won't carry it and opt for a slightly less precise jump in return for a cue that can be used for breaking. Personally, I think any cue should be able to execute every shot in the game and I scoff at those that think they need a different cue for everything. I use the meucci for breaking because I have a very hard break. Occasionally, I'll lose a shaft on the break, once I lost two in a row (that sucked). Also I have a very hard tip on it so I get the right impact for the break. (you do know a good break is technically a jump shot, right?). My case has two butts, four shafts, some Master chalk and a shaper (Willards). That's all I need...

Warranty? If it's warranty, there shouldn't be any charge except the tip replacement, $20 max. Lifetime Pool Cue Warranty | McDermott Cues

Talk to the factory... Repairs, Refurbishing, Warranty and Lifetime Maintenance | McDermott Cue Prices are at the bottom. A complete refurb is $250 for the entire cue including shaft.

As far as playing, I don't play for money, just a tourney player. I'm nowhere near that level now. My eyes are gone and I don't put in 4-6 hours of practice and 4 hours of playing a day like I did back then.

 

[Centermass]

When I was a kid, my dad would take me along to a pool hall he managed p/t. Technically, being under 18, by law, I wasn't allowed to be there, but, as long as I didn't play during operating hours, I just stayed out of site and didn't get in the way of things. He (My Dad) was a master on the table when it came to either snooker or 9 ball.

One of the benefits I fondly remember to this day was getting to watch the likes of Luther Lassiter, Willy Masconi and a few other hi profile names I can't remember, stroke the cue. A couple of years later, he had a p/t job during the summer break as a teacher, working in a mill shop, making cabinets. He got his hand caught in a mill and the automatic feed fed it straight into the blades. He had major surgery to save what they could, but his days of playing were over. I always hated that it happened as it was a game he loved as much as he did me and my family.

 

[Red Flag 1]

When I went through USAF "Medical Basis", a classmate and I held the table in Duffy's Tavern (O-Club) for the entire two weeks. He was a Veteranarian from MO, and we could both run the table with 8 Ball.

 

[Diamondback 2/2]

Well I dominated the hell out of the tournament again last night. Think I'm going to need to find a new spot though, doesn't seem like I'm getting a few individuals best game. Not sure what that's about, got in their head or just thought they were better. Either way bad form to keep winning the same tournament every week.

I went and looked at a few Predator cues, holy shit those cue's are expensive. I didn't see one that was under $1k and most we're $2500-$3k range. So I'm having new shafts and tips put on my McDermott's. lol I think if I stick with the seriousness until next year, I might look at dropping that kinda money, but damn.

 

[Red Flag 1]

Well I dominated the hell out of the tournament again last night. Think I'm going to need to find a new spot though, doesn't seem like I'm getting a few individuals best game. Not sure what that's about, got in their head or just thought they were better. Either way bad form to keep winning the same tournament every week.

I went and looked at a few Predator cues, holy shit those cue's are expensive. I didn't see one that was under $1k and most we're $2500-$3k range. So I'm having new shafts and tips put on my McDermott's. lol I think if I stick with the seriousness until next year, I might look at dropping that kinda money, but damn.

I have a pool table in the house, slate bottom, pocket nets with no ball return. I spent a small amount on some of the cues. I got three with small balls in the base, that light up when you hit the ball, grand kids love that. I set a limit of just $100 + on my cue, and that's about it. The table at Duffy's was a 3/4 sized table, and I had just left a place with full sized professional grade tables bought by the State on NY at one of their hospitals. That change to the smaller 3/4 size table just made it so easy to play a softer game for positioning up to three shots. The others were just hammering away at the balls, and for most, that was their goal, slam bang. It was funny to watch them.

 

[Diamondback 2/2]

You know for a cue to leave in the truck, I actually like this 21oz Chrystal Leisure. I spent about $80 on it and another $30 on the tip. It's shooting good for the bar tables. However, on the big tables I'm inconsistent with it on longer shot's, close up no issues, I'm just not getting the control out of it at distance. My brother noticed the same thing, and his 20oz Lucasi wasn't giving me or him the same issues.

But I dropped off two of my McDermott's yesterday afternoon and should have them back next week. Pretty excited actually.

 

[Red Flag 1]

You know for a cue to leave in the truck, I actually like this 21oz Chrystal Leisure. I spent about $80 on it and another $30 on the tip. It's shooting good for the bar tables. However, on the big tables I'm inconsistent with it on longer shot's, close up no issues, I'm just not getting the control out of it at distance. My brother noticed the same thing, and his 20oz Lucasi wasn't giving me or him the same issues.

But I dropped off two of my McDermott's yesterday afternoon and should have them back next week. Pretty excited actually.

Where is your aiming point, and what are you looking at when you stroke into the cue ball?

 

[compforce]

However, on the big tables I'm inconsistent with it on longer shot's, close up no issues, I'm just not getting the control out of it at distance. My brother noticed the same thing, and his 20oz Lucasi wasn't giving me or him the same issues.

What you're describing is cue ball deflection. the more wiggle in the shaft, the more it throws the cue ball to one side or the other. If you put left english (hit left of the center on the cue), even a tiny bit, the cue ball squirts out to the right. It's exactly why you want better cues, shafts and tips, less deflection or at least more predictable deflection. The predators I pointed you to are specifically designed to be "zero deflection" (which is a misnomer, they still deflect, just in a way that, once your point of aim is adjusted for the cue, you aren't really affected by it as much). BTW, if you hit those same shots softer, the spin will cause the cue ball to curve back into the point of aim. I've deliberately used that type of deflection and the curve (swerve) to get around a ball that was just barely in the way. Here's a good explanational video:

 

[Diamondback 2/2]

Where is your aiming point, and what are you looking at when you stroke into the cue ball?

Once I line up my shot I'm 100% focused on my strike point on the cue ball. Basically line up the shot, go through my mental check list getting into position, focus on my strike point on the cue ball, attempt to execute the stroke with follow through.

What you're describing is cue ball deflection. the more wiggle in the shaft, the more it throws the cue ball to one side or the other. If you put left english (hit left of the center on the cue), even a tiny bit, the cue ball squirts out to the right. It's exactly why you want better cues, shafts and tips, less deflection or at least more predictable deflection. The predators I pointed you to are specifically designed to be "zero deflection" (which is a misnomer, they still deflect, just in a way that, once your point of aim is adjusted for the cue, you aren't really affected by it as much). BTW, if you hit those same shots softer, the spin will cause the cue ball to curve back into the point of aim. I've deliberately used that type of deflection and the curve (swerve) to get around a ball that was just barely in the way. Here's a good explanational video:

Thanks bro, I wasn't aware of that (pool cue deflection), I'm really glad I started this thread.

Do you have any "development style" books you recommend. I've noticed with a lot of other things,I tend to learn more by reading/thinking/trying vs attempting to copy a demonstration in person or video.

 

[compforce]

Do you have any "development style" books you recommend. I've noticed with a lot of other things,I tend to learn more by reading/thinking/trying vs attempting to copy a demonstration in person or video.

The very first book in any pool player's library (if they want to get serious about it) should be Ray Martin's "99 Critical Shots in Pool" http://smile.amazon.com/99-Critical...278&sr=1-1&keywords=99+critical+shots+of+pool

Next I would probably get into the mechanics of the game... with The Science of Pocket Billiards: Jack H. Koehler: 9780962289026: Amazon.com: Books

A close second to Koehler is Byrne's books This is both his basic and advanced books rolled into one.
http://smile.amazon.com/Byrnes-Comp...rne's+new+standard+book+of+pool+and+billiards

Once I line up my shot I'm 100% focused on my strike point on the cue ball. Basically line up the shot, go through my mental check list getting into position, focus on my strike point on the cue ball, attempt to execute the stroke with follow through.

Exactly where most people make the same mistake... First, you have to get a consistent stroke. You should be able to line up on the ball, close your eyes and make the shot. Some of the advanced marksmen on the site will recognize this as the same "natural point of aim" that you use behind a scope. Once you get a consistent stroke, you line up the shot the same way you do now and then shift your eyes to focus on the target...exactly the opposite of shooting a pistol. Remember to do all your thinking BEFORE you get down on the shot. At that point all you want to have to focus on is making the ball with the correct amount of power to get your leave. Once I know your skill level and that you've got these basics down, I'll let you in on a pro secret about leaving the cue that will make the whole exercise that much easier. I'm not knocking your game, these are things that most people don't know/practice and it limits them immensely. Most players, even good ones, have to unlearn all their bad habits and start over if they want to get really good.

 

[Diamondback 2/2]

The very first book in any pool player's library (if they want to get serious about it) should be Ray Martin's "99 Critical Shots in Pool" The 99 Critical Shots in Pool: Everything You Need to Know to Learn and Master the Game (Other): Ray Martin, Inc. IMGS, Estate of Rosser Reeves: 9780812922417: Amazon.com: Books

Next I would probably get into the mechanics of the game... with The Science of Pocket Billiards: Jack H. Koehler: 9780962289026: Amazon.com: Books

A close second to Koehler is Byrne's books This is both his basic and advanced books rolled into one.
Byrne's Complete Book of Pool Shots: 350 Moves Every Player Should Know: Robert Byrne: 9780156027212: Amazon.com: Books





Exactly where most people make the same mistake... First, you have to get a consistent stroke. You should be able to line up on the ball, close your eyes and make the shot. Some of the advanced marksmen on the site will recognize this as the same "natural point of aim" that you use behind a scope. Once you get a consistent stroke, you line up the shot the same way you do now and then shift your eyes to focus on the target...exactly the opposite of shooting a pistol. Remember to do all your thinking BEFORE you get down on the shot. At that point all you want to have to focus on is making the ball with the correct amount of power to get your leave. Once I know your skill level and that you've got these basics down, I'll let you in on a pro secret about leaving the cue that will make the whole exercise that much easier. I'm not knocking your game, these are things that most people don't know/practice and it limits them immensely. Most players, even good ones, have to unlearn all their bad habits and start over if they want to get really good.

I'm not taking it as "knocking my game" at all, I actually really appreciate it. I've never been taught, just spent hours upon hours and over time gotten better. Like I said earlier, I've never been on anything close to your level, and the last guy that I played who said he was "Pro" he never actually let me shoot a ball against him as he just kept breaking and running it off (obviously made a long lasting point).

I want to get better, and right now is probably the best time for me to learn what right is. So don't hold back at all, I appreciate you taking the time.

 

[Red Flag 1]

Once I line up my shot I'm 100% focused on my strike point on the cue ball. Basically line up the shot, go through my mental check list getting into position, focus on my strike point on the cue ball, attempt to execute the stroke with follow through.



Thanks bro, I wasn't aware of that (pool cue deflection), I'm really glad I started this thread.

Do you have any "development style" books you recommend. I've noticed with a lot of other things,I tend to learn more by reading/thinking/trying vs attempting to copy a demonstration in person or video.

The vid from @compforce is one of the best I've seen in a long time.

Once I have determined where I am going to impact the cue ball, considering what if any english I want, and power of the stroke, I move my focus the the point I want the cue ball to impact the object ball, I draw a line through the cue ball to the object ball.. That is to say, I no longer look at the cueball. It works for me 90% of the time. I do take time in prepping my stroke to the cue ball quite a bit, and by the time I change my focus to the object ball, I always hit the cueball exactly where I intended. My accuracy has increased a good 50% from focusing only on the cue ball. YMMV.

It has taken be years of practice to be able to do this with consistency, but the object ball goes exactly where I want, as does the cue ball. I don't power shoot, but "control stroke" the cue as much as I can. I can pretty well set up my next two to three shots, and sort of amble around the table.

Play well my friend. Adding beer, Whiskey or your pick, reduces my accuracy a good 20-30%