Devildoc
Verified Military
If you're interested, and haven't already seen it, check out 14 Peaks on Netflix. It follows a group of Nepali sherpas led by one named Nirmal "Nims" Purja as they set out to summit the world's 14 tallest peaks in just 7 months. If you take nothing else from the film, it's that sherpas, particularly Nepali sherpas, are the true studs of the mountain.
Here's a pretty good synopsis:
14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible movie review (2021) | Roger Ebert
I read an article about how and why sherpas are uniquely suited for that role in that environment. It was all about the physiology. It was fascinating. If I can find it I will share. Thanks for that tip, I will definitely check that show out.
I also know two guys, local, who did an OCR at the base camp. While not summiting, doing an OCR at 16K+ feet is pretty outrageous to me, too.