Camouflage painting for the M4

The91Bravo

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Here is my baby.. Some of you may have 'seen' it before ;)

But here for your input... Please let me know what you think

BEFORE and AFTER

And it is easier than you think to do correctly...

Steve
 

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R

rangerpsych

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base coat, top coat, matte clear if you got it... good enough.

I don't dig paint because I heat my barrel up a bit much when I shoot, even with semi.... plus having to change the paint job every 6 months would be a bitch... LOL
 

The91Bravo

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Helo,
As a matter of fact I am. One of the instructors at 5th SFG SOTIC (SNIPER) taught me and it only took 5 minutes... even for a rock like me....

here's how:
SFC T.B. at sotic told me to do it this way:
1. disassemble.. strip all exterior parts
2. I cleaned it with brake cleaner, brushed the cracks and crevices with a firm brush
3. I let it dry overnite.
4. mask off (on the rifle) the mag well, s/n, safe and fire,
on the parts, masked holographic lenses, flashlight lens, part number on rear sight. and anything else you desire to cover
5. Base coat of flat almond on all parts seperately (keft the upper and lower together)
5.1 assemble exterior parts
6. next coat without foliage of flat sand in crossing parts
7. next coat in primer brick red with oak leaf, small leafs, grass and group of twigs
8. next coat of OD green with same foliage...
9. let dry
10 take pix and present shit eating grin...

I was able to do the small colors without letting it dry in between, and I could pick it up and carry in five minutes.

when painting, keep 10-12 inches and start spraying left to right before you get to your target and spray after you pass target.. use many light coats instead of one heavy coat..

I had to fix a couple spots, but I simply let it dry, and scraped the blemishes rubbed them clean and touched up.

I like it, and thanks for the compliments.

I like the fact that it grew the accessories too ;-)

Steve
 

The91Bravo

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On step 2., make sure you brush it after it's dry, or brush it wet AND after its dry. You'll see residue when it dries.

Also After the base coat, I made one mistake. When I added the next layer, I held the can too close. It didnt run, but the solvent of the second color caused the first layer to flake up like a paint stripper. To avoid this, hold the second coat about 18 inches away and mist multi light light layers.. This solved and prevented the prob.

If it does flak or blemish, I waited until bone dry (stopped all next steps) gently scraped the flaked portion off with a small jewelers flat tip screwdriver (1/8th inch), then gently sanded the edge where the good paint meets the part you just scraped off. then continued on with the next steps..

Hope it works. If you need any help, I'd love to do what I can.. If you're near Fort Campbell, Ky or Clarksville, TN. I'll do it for free.. for you all here.

Just PM and I'll meet you

Steve

p.s. thanks for the compliment pardus
 

Pete031

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Looks good...
I just bought one, and I am thinking of doing the laundry bag trick to mine. ANy of you guys attempt it before? At work we have the fern cut outs, I usually just spray on the ones at work until it looks good.
 

Totentanz

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Looks nice. Just out of pure dumb curiosity, what kind of paint is typically used for these things?
 

The91Bravo

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I use Krylon.. never had problem, and it wears off instead than scratching off.. if you know what I mean.. You can bang it around and you dont have flaking like crazy... Just make sure you solvent clean everything that the paint will touch. Especially where the pins holding the trigger group are. spray the piss out of that area, or the oil will seem through into the surface of the bottom receiver..

Hope this helps
 

HeloMedic1171

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I'm in awe. that's surprisingly easy. easy enough that I tihnk I'd like to try it with my Remington 700 (think M24 sniper rifle) I have at home. I want to add a bipod and a better scope to it, and that's really it. and paint. I think it'll look really good, plus that whole practical thing..... I've actually seen weapons painted over here. a brigade in 3rd ID did it and it looked great. the guys I talked to said they tried it first in an ACU pattern that looked spiffy, but their command mde them strip it and paint the weapons tan, similar to yours. I think yours looks better, because there's no gray primer like they used showing. great job. Exactly what kind of Krylon did you use?
 

The91Bravo

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just krylon flat. The one can that says 'camouflage' that is OD Green says 'special purpose' in a black band around the topedge of the can below the cap.

If your M700 has a free floating barrel, I would do what the SOTIC guys recommended. they made a slight mark with the barrel attached to the stock so you can see where the stock ends when it is removed. they then taped off the part of the barrel that will be hidden in the stock (about 1/8 below the edge) This way you dont get a layer of paint where you dont need it and loose your free float.
 

HeloMedic1171

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I don't have a free-floating barrel, though I had considered using one of the numerous stocks available to do just that. got a suggestion? in the perfect world I'd like a free-float, bipod, and better optics. I know only about enough to get me in trouble, so any pointers on what to get/where to look woul be great. as for painting, I'll be sure to tape off where you recommended, and I'll probably come back to you with picks of the taped gun to make sure i got the important stuff taped. thanks for the great idea.
 
H

HoundDog

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Nice:) but cammo on a gun just isn't my thing, I like the black look ,and I would probably lose the gun if I dropped it and it blended in.
 

The91Bravo

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if you drop the scratch to buy the stock, make sure the barrel is of the same high quality, or you are pissin your cash down the drain. ( i dont know what barrel you have)

Take care
Steve
 
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