Vehicle maintenance

Take the door panel off?

Can you hear the window regulator motor running or working? If so, and you can at least roll down the window, then, apply the silicone to channels. If the vehicle is old, and this doesn't work, then it's probably time to replace the regulator assembly with a new one.
 
Can you hear the window regulator motor running or working? If so, and you can at least roll down the window, then, apply the silicone to channels. If the vehicle is old, and this doesn't work, then it's probably time to replace the regulator assembly with a new one.

It struggles and I have to use my hand to pull the window up, mostly in cold weather.
 
well... bought a 2006 Jeep Liberty that runs great, minor body work needed for $1k as-is from a dealer. I replaced a broken door latch, the battery and the shocks for the liftgate. Found out after the fact that the low beams don't work (facepalm). Everything else is perfect. All in all, what I thought was a great deal. Heck, replacing the windshield on my car runs right at $1500 and it gets multiple rock chips every time I drive into work. So if I drive the jeep until the windshield is destroyed and then throw it away, I still come out ahead. Unfortunately I have to drive early morning when I go to work, which really doesn't happen thanks to the low beams.

On to those pesky low beams. I was able to find the Jeep KJ service manual online. BTW, I have a site where you can get almost any Jeep Service Manual if anyone needs theirs, much more detailed than Haynes or Chilton. I started chasing down the fault and got to a place where it's got to be either the junction block or the BCM. All of the fuses are good. The low beam relay is good. All of the wires show end-to-end continuity. I replaced the junction block....no joy. I sent the BCM off to a company that rebuilds the components that are no longer made....no joy. I'm now sitting here with a Jeep that has no faults that I can find but whose lights just won't work. I get continuity everywhere, voltages test out properly. There is nothing left that could be broken. I went so far as to buy an Autel scanner, which reports "Low Beam Relay High". When I actuate the relay, you can hear the audible click of it engaging. I have nowhere else to go with this thing.

Anyone have any ideas?
 
well... bought a 2006 Jeep Liberty that runs great, minor body work needed for $1k as-is from a dealer. I replaced a broken door latch, the battery and the shocks for the liftgate. Found out after the fact that the low beams don't work (facepalm). Everything else is perfect. All in all, what I thought was a great deal. Heck, replacing the windshield on my car runs right at $1500 and it gets multiple rock chips every time I drive into work. So if I drive the jeep until the windshield is destroyed and then throw it away, I still come out ahead. Unfortunately I have to drive early morning when I go to work, which really doesn't happen thanks to the low beams.

On to those pesky low beams. I was able to find the Jeep KJ service manual online. BTW, I have a site where you can get almost any Jeep Service Manual if anyone needs theirs, much more detailed than Haynes or Chilton. I started chasing down the fault and got to a place where it's got to be either the junction block or the BCM. All of the fuses are good. The low beam relay is good. All of the wires show end-to-end continuity. I replaced the junction block....no joy. I sent the BCM off to a company that rebuilds the components that are no longer made....no joy. I'm now sitting here with a Jeep that has no faults that I can find but whose lights just won't work. I get continuity everywhere, voltages test out properly. There is nothing left that could be broken. I went so far as to buy an Autel scanner, which reports "Low Beam Relay High". When I actuate the relay, you can hear the audible click of it engaging. I have nowhere else to go with this thing.

Anyone have any ideas?

Replace the multifunction switch.

26774
 
It's actually a pretty easy repair if you have the tools. Just have to be careful when it comes to the airbag and taking the proper precautions before hand.
 
Or just bypass the switch, wire out a couple toggles on the dash for low/high and call it good. If it's a work beater, a simple bypass would probably be the cheapest solution.
 
Have you checked the connectors with voltage meter?
Checked fuses under dash and hood? Tested bulbs?
Outside of a blown fuse, relay, or bulb, you are possibly looking at a wire harness issue, possibly failure to ground.

I have a buddy who worked for a Chrysler dealership mechanic shop, I'll text him and find out what he says.
 
Have you checked the connectors with voltage meter?
Checked fuses under dash and hood? Tested bulbs?
Outside of a blown fuse, relay, or bulb, you are possibly looking at a wire harness issue, possibly failure to ground.

I have a buddy who worked for a Chrysler dealership mechanic shop, I'll text him and find out what he says.

All voltages look right. The Voltage test of the B+ circuit from the last step in the service manual diagnostics above was high at 12V, which prompted the rebuild of the BCM.
PDM 50A fuse, 2X 10A fuses and 1X 20A fuse identified from the circuit diagram are all good (I tested 100% of the fuses for continuity with the voltmeter even if they weren't related)
New Bulbs, continuity test shows good on both circuits and high beams work properly. Low beams work when ground pin on magnet side of the relay is jumped to a ground.

It could potentially be a ground, but if it is, it's inside the BCM as the junction block has continuity from the common ground leaving the BCM into the junction block and from the junction block to the pin in question on the relay. The BCM as I mentioned was sent to a company that fixes/remanufactures them and has a lifetime warranty. I'm planning to call them tomorrow morning and see if they can verify that it's an internal ground in the BCM. The paperwork they sent me when they returned the module explicitly shows all the grounds as working properly.

BTW, this issue is the same with both the old junction block and the new one. Unless I just had the bad coincidence of getting two junction blocks with exactly the same issue, it can't be the block.
 
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So my buddy says, that you need to trace the wire harness between head light connection to relay, from relay to switch, look for broken, burnt, or corroded wires. If it's got power, at the headlights than your looking for a bad ground. Normally found at the pin connection, His words.
 
So my buddy says, that you need to trace the wire harness between head light connection to relay, from relay to switch, look for broken, burnt, or corroded wires. If it's got power, at the headlights than your looking for a bad ground. Normally found at the pin connection, His words.

Well, traced through and I get a good ground at the wire that feeds into the BCM. That goes through the BCM and junction block to get to the relay pin that I can directly ground to turn on the headlights. Time to warranty the work that was done on the BCM, it's the only part that isn't just a direct line to the ground.
 
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